A JOURNEY THROUGH FUTURE-FACING MENSWEAR

January in Paris: a city draped in grey, the streets slick with rain, and yet, beneath the gloom, the air pulsed with the promise of something new. As the LN-CC team touched down for the menswear edition of Paris Fashion Week, they embarked on an expedition into the heart of creativity, seeking out the best in show, championing the forward-thinking design that defines the creative nexus’ buy, and lapping up the capital’s most dynamic activations.

This season, a collective thread ran through the collections, a meditation on reality as it is known. Whether through the lens of personal identity, societal shifts, or simply the day-to-day, LN-CC’s key brands crafted narratives that felt grounded yet otherworldly.

Walter Van Beirendonck set the tone with a visually stimulating collision of tailoring and the extraterrestrial. A finale bursting with joy, his collection served as a reminder of the irresistible charm of his vision, an alien triumph in a world that feels increasingly peculiar itself.

Meanwhile, Rick Owens delivered on its signature dystopian fantasy. Towering boots, fluid silhouettes, and a cast of compelling misfits strode through an environment where interchangeable takes on Bowie’s Heroes wove seamlessly into the ongoing tapestry of his evolving legacy.

The ascendant LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi continued his exploration of body politics, presenting clothing as both armour and refuge in an era of relentless change. His next PUMA collaboration solidified his place as one of the season’s most desirable names, a testament to his unwavering evolution since 2019.

Kiko Kostadinov explored his Bulgarian heritage through formal constructions imbued with military rigour. Asymmetric tailoring and fresh fabric compositions gave the collection a sense of both modernity and historical depth, his signature interplay of texture and unexpected colour once again proved masterful.

Y-3, the enduring meeting of Yohji Yamamoto and adidas, reaffirmed its supremacy. More than a mere collaboration, it remains an institution, technical precision fused with motocore aesthetics and elevated performance wear. Iterations of the iconic three-stripe silhouette felt both new and nostalgic, a balance few brands achieve with such consistency.

At Yohji Yamamoto, the godfather of menswear remained true to form, presenting a collection deeply rooted in reality. Expressive yet effortless, heavy coats and boots grounded his diverse cast, while models swapping garments mid-show kept even the most seasoned fashion insiders transfixed. The haunting strains of Japanese music added to the nostalgia-tinged atmosphere.

Beyond the runways, the real theatre played out on the streets. Fashion’s most influential figures gathered at activations by stalwarts like Levi’s, PUMA, and New Balance, because in Paris, as ever, to see and be seen is the ultimate currency.