UNFAMILIAR FAMILIAR
DRIES VAN NOTEN RE-IMAGINES AND RE-ENERGISES NOTIONS OF TRADITION FOR SPRING/SUMMER 24
Dries Van Noten, the Belgian-born designer, orchestrates a captivating array of contemporary essentials for the new season. Traditional boundaries blur as a fresh approach emerges, showcasing unique styles and unexpected detailing. Diverse sensibilities converge and transform, marked by spontaneity and liberated expression. Within both the womenswear and menswear collections, an ongoing dialogue unfolds, the tension of contrasting ideas coming together to create something spontaneous and free-thinking.
Dries Van Noten womenswear explores different stories and opposing sentiments coming together to find a common language. Infusing a sense of novelty into the familiar, Dries reimagines an impressive array of silhouettes with his distinctive sensibility, all while maintaining a light-hearted and upbeat tone. Experimenting with both formal and sports-inspired shapes, the collection shines in mismatched patterns, bi-colours, graphical motifs of swirls and checks, sequins, feathers and pearls – further portraying the untraditional tradition; abstracted and remixed.
Either shrunken or exploded in form, tuxedo jackets and double-breasted suits are draped and oversized, adorned with an abundance of pockets and buttons. The structure of formality alongside the ease of casual dress sees trench coats elongated and their gabardine applied to skirts and dresses.
Authenticity is demonstrated through fabric, with cotton chino, striped poplin, gabardine, and Prince of Wales checks taking precedence. Washed denim, an everyday material, is adapted into evening jackets and elegant coats – underscoring the brand's unwavering commitment to versatility and timeless style.
Dries Van Noten menswear offers an exploration of disrupted elegance, studying new propositions of masculinity today – a mixture of strength and gentility – with each piece a reflection on refinement, celebrating subtle details and nuance over bold gestures. Stripping away unnecessary elements, emphasis is put on a rigorous new tailoring silhouette that is narrow and elongated – defined by high waists and flared trousers offset with strongly-shouldered jackets or ones that flow softly over the arms. Trench coats are lengthened, their distinctive shape also forming panels over trousers, and shirts take the form of dresses while bomber jackets are crafted with sculptural raglan sleeves.
A feeling of lightness and fluidity is explored through airy proportions and soft shapes, featuring sheer mousseline and gauzy technical fabrics, giving the illusion of nudity that’s accentuated by scooping necklines and skin-baring knitwear.
Sophistication and subtlety in the execution of the colour palette creates a sensory rich line-up comprising herringbone, slub cotton, shantung silk. The iridescent shimmer of metallic details, unexpected textures and flowing shirting are offset by intense depth of colour; from rust, ecru, and lilac to ink and olive tones.
Infused with a new energy and embodying a harmonious fusion of contrasting perspectives and concepts, Dries Van Noten's signature exploration of masculine and feminine proportions takes us on a captivating journey through reinvented tradition.